THE FASHION DIARIES
A distinct style and a niche in indian wear, one of india’sPremier fashion designers, sabyasachi mukherjee speaksAbout his ideals, his inspiration, what works best in fashionAnd what the future of fashion has in store for us.By ranvijaysinh jhala

One often hears how a global perspective always widens one’s horizons, with a well-informed outlook becoming apparent in one’s work. On the other hand, regional exposure can compel an artist to create something that does justice to his origins. This unique way of thinking is what probably sets designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee apart from others. With humble beginnings and limited resources to travel, Sabyasachi followed a natural inclination to create clothes for the Indian woman. “One derives inspiration from whatever one sees, listens to, reads or experiences,” he explains. “When I was young, my mother used to help dress up brides in the neighbourhood, and I would accompany her. I was not allowed to so much as touch the bride’s clothes, but would end up helping other girls get ready for the weddings. I would fiddle around with their saris and add my innovative touch. I was fascinated by the way women dressed, especially Indian women,” he recalls. Even when he was younger, Sabyasachi, who was more inclined towards directing plays through school, would get completely involved with the costumes. Besides that, his sisters turned to him for help with their wardrobe, and he would sometimes even sew clothes for them. Eventually, bypassing a conventional desk job for something more creative, fashion seemed to make absolute sense.



CULTURAL CURVE
Over time, Sabyasachi carved his niche in Indian wear, specialising in traditional crafts with a contemporary twist. “I believe very strongly in the strength of India’s heritage.We have such a wide range of crafts that come from centuries and centuries of our illustrious past,” he expresses. “There is so much potential in the fabrics, weaves and dyes that are available to us. I think it was natural for me to focus on Indian wear.After all, the exposure I received during my influential years was that of traditional India,” he states. Speaking more on India’s heritage, Sabyasachi points out, “One speaks highly about Western civilisation and how everything they have is the best, but we mustn’t forget that India has the legacy of the first ever known civilisations of Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa. India also has traces of the first ever human clothing. Even the idea of luxury originated in India, with the lavishness of our erstwhile royalty.” While gushing with pride, he also complains that the saddest part is that we fail to acknowledge our own value. He adds, “For instance, brocade is probably one of the most richly-wovenfabrics in the world and it has its origins in India. Yet we never considered its worth until Jean-Paul Gaultier did a collection using brocade. After that, we fell in love with itsrichness and glamour quotient!”

He personally feels that a weave or print from any Indian school of art is best used in its traditional form, without tampering with it to make it modern. He elucidates, “I am inspired by various schools of design from history. Historic crafts are always better than a completely modern approach.” He delves deeper into the concept of modernism as he adds, “At times, it’s a blurry concept. With modernism, anything goes, with no real meaning in the final product.” Therefore, he prefers working with more traditional patterns like paisleys. “I can never bring myself to work with circles, polka dots, squares and checks, even though I’ve tried to. It just doesn’t fulfil me as much as working with traditional patterns,” he reveals.


A LOGICAL BLEND
With such great pride in what India offers, one wonders what Sabyasachi thinks of the evolution of westernised dressing in India, and of so many international labels entering India. He reasons, “While I may propagate the greatness of Indian craft and design, I am not for a ‘swadeshi’ movement either. I also believe in quality, and if an international label offers me that, I go for it. I shop abroad all the time and the shoes I buy last me years—that’s the quality I appreciate. So I’m perfectly fine with international brands entering India, as long as they have quality products to offer. Let them come and then let it be the survival of the fittest!”

On that note, there’s also so much fusion in the way people dress these days, in terms of pairing and accessorising that it has become difficult to distinguish attires. He advises, “The rate at which fusion is used and abused now, I would recommend avoiding it altogether. Even mixing and matching should have some logic.” He also refers to people who falter with what they believe is the ‘bohemian’ look. He clarifies,“Being bohemian refers to a state of mind where you’re comfortable with yourself, even though you’re different from the rest. For instance, at an occasion where everyone is garbed in saris with heavy zari work, and you show up in a cotton sari with flowers in your hair. To make a statement about your individuality is bohemian! It’s not bohemian to pair a tshirt with a salwar!”


Being bohemian refers to a state of mind where you’re comfortable with yourself, even though you’re different from the rest. For instance, at an occasion where everyone is garbed in saris with heavy zari work, and you show up in a cotton sari with flowers in your hair.

COMMERCIALISM KILLS CREATIVITY
These days, one of the commonly-heard grouses on fashion is the impracticality of most clothes. Sabyasachi feels that clothes are becoming unnecessarily bizarre, just for designers to showcase their ‘creativity’. He states, “While designing, it’s really hard to come out with something unique, yet not absurdly creative. Take for example the sleeve. We’ve done the dolman, bishop, cap, batwing, pagoda, etc... Now how can one get more creative? Strange styles that look odd and uncomfortable are done at times, and creativity is taken to an awkward level, where the three purposes of clothing—to protect, beautify and provide comfort—are defeated altogether.” This race for creativity, he feels is due to fashion having become extremely commercial over the last few decades. “Till the ’80s, people displayed a beautiful sense of dressing. Each decade had distinct trends—the bell bottoms and the long, centre-parted hair in the ’70s, the Buffon hairstyle and Betty Boop sunglasses in the ’60s and so on. Everything was so defined, but now, with the pressure to design something new and different each season, everything’s a hotchpotch and nothing really sticks with us,” he claims.

Why should anyone invest in revamping their wardrobe every season just to be trendy? One would rather spend on a holiday or on something more important. I am a designer, but even I don’t believe that clothes are the be-all and end-all of life!

THOSE WHO SURVIVE
Sabyasachi strongly believes that fashion changing rapidly and drastically is particularly harmful to the consumers, whose faith in the creative minds and brands is taken for granted. “Today, you’re frowned upon for carrying a handbag that is ‘so last season’! Why should anyone invest in revamping their wardrobe every season just to be trendy?” he questions. “One would rather spend on a holiday or on something more important. I am a designer, but even I don’t believe that clothes are the beall and end-all of life! That is why I believe in maintaining consistency among my collections,” he maintains.

Besides consistency, he points out that the brands that will survive are the ones who constantly produce true quality without succumbing to pressure on their creativity, by going overboard in order to obtain temporary fame and popularity. He elaborates, “Hyping up your brand can only last short-term. It’s true quality that lasts. Even brands like Prada that used to be consistent, are resorting to publicity gimmicks to improve their popularity. It is brands like Hermès and Cartier that are consistent with what they have to offer, and these are the brands that have stable reputations.”

With all said and done and the dilemma of designers presenting breakthroughs in fashion without succumbing to absurd creativity, Sabyasachi thinks that a level of maturity will set in soon. He explains, “Sometimes it’s better to be repetitive than to be creative and ridiculous. Soon simple clothes will be refreshing, because the basics will then be different from the norm. The pressure to outdo each other will reach saturation. This was seen in a recent collection for Chloé, through which designer Phoebe Philo stunned everyone by its simplicity. She did simple day dresses, shirts and trousers. ‘Boring sanity’ was what people wanted more than anything, and that’s what was loved about it.”

His head is firmly on his shoulders when it comes to his design outlook, but Sabyasachi has a few dreams for his future that reflect his limitless imagination. We’ve heard that he plans to make a movie some day, and while that is true, he reveals, “I think I can only make a movie if I give up fashion for a while. The idea of making a film really excites me. I actually have an entire script ready in my mind. During my bouts of imagination and excitement, I’ve even related the entire story to my team at work. My love for theatre and direction indicate that once I start, I’ll be very passionate about my film. However, since it’ll require my total commitment, there are no plans on the cards just yet.” That just gives us a lot more to look forward to from the name Sabyasachi.

WRAP IT RIGHT
Sabyasachi offers some valuable tips on getting your sari right
■ Your sari is incomplete without a well-defined border. Get a border that can add just the right touch of drama.
■ Long-sleeved blouses always add length to your arms, and hence elegance. They even work very well for women with heavier arms.
■ Don’t tamper with a sari by having it pre-stitched or precut. Appreciate its versatility as a simple six-yard-long piece of fabric with so much potential.
■ Less is more. Don’t add a plunging neckline to a backless or sleeveless blouse. Show either cleavage or back or arms—one thing at a time.
■ High-heels enhance your posture and help the sari fall well. However, don’t wear high heels if you’re not comfortable in them; wear flats with your sari—the way it was worn traditionally.