History...
MARITIME
With 18 international gold medals and 4300 first prizes in chronometric excellence to its credit, it’s small wonder then that Ulysse Nardin is synonymous with cutting edge timepieces of the highest specialization and marine chronometry, discovers PRIYA TANNA...
Ulysse

Lord of the seas...

In its 150 years of existence, Ulysse Nardin has earned high repute for being specialists in marine chronometry. Not only are they objects of desire for avid watch lovers and collectors but have also serviced the navies of over 50 countries.
In a bid to offer the highest technology, Ulysse Nardin has patented inventions and complications including the Trilogy, the Jaquemart Minute Repeater and the Hour Striker San Marco. UN (Ulysse Nardin) also revived the craft of cloisonné watches in the 80’s when the art was considered to be dead.
In the lexicon of world shipping, brigs, frigates, schooners and clippers have been integral in propelling international trade and seeing this opportunity, Ulysse Nardin went headlong into manufacturing marine chronometers and developed their first - The Marine Chronometer 1846. For those still in the dark, it was a time-keeping instrument with 2-8 days power reserve which made it possible to determine the exact longitude while a ship was at sea.
From 1876 onward, UN provided marine chronometers to the Neuchatel and Geneva Observatories where they went stringent tests. Though satellites have replaced these original navigation instruments, they are still prized by enthusiasts and collectors.


A GREAT START...

Named after its founder, Ulysse Nardin, the watch label was born in 1846. Its founder Ulysse Nardin trained in horology under his father and further honed his skills under Swiss master watchmakers. Ulysse was only 23 years old when he settled in Le Locle to develop complex pocket watches and chronometers.
It’s current President, Rolf W Schnyder bought the label in 1983 and around the same time found a friend and watchmaker par excellence in scientist, inventor and historian
Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. Together the two have been busy creating inimitable timepieces.

The power of three...

In 1985, UN launched it’s Trilogy of astronomical watches - The Astrolabium Galeleo Galilei, the Planetarium Copernicus and the Tellurium Johannes Kepler. The trilogy is a unique three-of-a-kind technical marvel that redefines timekeeping by going beyond time division into hours, minutes and seconds. It establishes a relationship between time and the bodies in space that determine Earth time. It represents the entire solar system in a wristwatch.

The ulysse nardin philosophy...

‘At the beginning of all action is a belief’.
This philosophy is born and inspired by the miracle of mechanical watches. Hundreds of tiny pieces that are combined in gears and wheels create the precision that separates a mechanical watch movement from that of quartz. Mechanical timepieces remain the quintessence of traditional craftsmanship with a long lasting value.

Un and enamel...

Alongside perpetuating great mechanical achievements, in a parallel mode, it restored the almost lost art of enamelling. It is a refined and decorative technique that gives a strong individuality to the dials.
As a process, enamelling dates back to Gallo-Roman times. It is a glass comprising silica, red lead and potash. In the glazing process elements like lime or magnesium are combined with silica and to which potassium and sodium are added to lower the melting point. As a result, different colours are obtained from different metallic oxides.
Through the ages this technique has been used in watch making, but enamel watches sunk in the fifties, due to production difficulties.
UN revived it and their San Marco chronometers with the special blue on the dials with limited editions of boats, sea battles and historical places on the map of the world. They have opted for the hardest path to achieve perfection in enamelling. In order to do so, they have used the cloisonné technique that consists of the elaboration of a drawing and the matching of the colours on each segment. Each segment, even the smallest one is divided by the other by gold wires. This encloses the liquid filled with powdered enamel. This work of art is performed on a surface only two centimetres in diameter.
To create each dial for a limited edition more than 50 preliminary operations are required, 12-24 kiln steps and at least 50 working hours by the enameller. It’s no wonder then, that at the end of this long process each watch becomes a stamp of the company’s pride.

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