AHEAD OF THE GAME

A visit to the jaeger-lecoultre manufacture in le Sentier reveals that its success is defined by Its two golden rules—exhaustiveness and Excellence. These principles are further Reinforced with the launch of the hybris Mechanica 55 coffret, a mechanical feat for the Brand and for watch-making. Anita khatri and Veyoleen mehrotra report

The name Jaeger-LeCoultre immediately calls to mind the Reverso watches, the Atmos clock and even the Gyrotourbillon 1—a host of innovations that have defined the brand far more effectively than any words can. It therefore comes as no surprise that our visit to the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture in Le Sentier was marked by incredible anticipation. After all, ever since its establishment in 1833 by inventor and watchmaker Antoine-LeCoultre, the company has witnessed a steady and consistent rise in performance and success, each milestone a nod to its technical heritage.

ILLUSTRIOUS HERITAGE
Nestled in Vallée de Joux, for over 175 years now, the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop has been instrumental in designing and crafting over 500 complicated calibres. A highlight of this visit was the exclusive presentation of a new line of grand complications. While the company has celebrated many landmarks along the way, this year will be remembered as one where the company pushed the boundaries of watch-making excellence, with its efforts being rewarded with thumping success. The year 2009 will witness the unveiling of a range of grand complications—the Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret.

Hybris Mechanica—Greek for disproportionate excessiveness of the mechanical—is an expression of the excessiveness of such complications. The Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret collection comprises three masterpieces and is available in a limited edition of only 30 sets.




Each watch is defined by a grand complication and includes the tourbillon, multi-complications or the sonnerie. In fact, the number 55 symbolises the total number of complications within the collection.

In many ways, the collection will change the record books. To cite an example, two original innovations were reinvented for the Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret line. What is noteworthy about this is that the two inspirations were a world-premiere at the time. Ultimately, the collection comprises three watches: Gyrotourbillon 1, Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque and Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie.


A WORK OF ART
Of the three watches, the Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie took five years to develop and involved over 1,000 in-house calibres. It is the most ‘complicated’ wristwatch with 26 functions and over 13 patents so far. The trebuchet hammer is one of the 13 patents. The traditional system delivers 10 per cent to 30 per cent of the power originally applied. The trebuchet system, on the other hand, delivers 80 per cent of the force of the movement. This was accomplished after considerable research, where the weight of the hammer and gong were studied to achieve the sound desired. In fact, the new system features sword gongs crafted from a new type of alloy.

It is also the only wristwatch that plays integrally the melody of the Westminster Carillon and possesses the longest power reserve in the Grande Sonnerie mode. The result of this developement is that there are atleast three world premieres.

In the Minute Repeater mode, the watch strikes on demand and indicates the time by using the four gongs. It strikes in the order of the hours, the quarters and finally the minutes. A low tone strikes to indicate each hour; for the quarters—15, 30 and 45 minutes—the dedicated melody is played for the corresponding quarter. A higher tone is used to measure the remaining minutes.

A new gongs regulateur system has been introduced featuring perfect regulation and frictionless movement. One can even select the striking mode—hour mode and two for increasing/ decreasing the minutes. The crown activates the minute repeater, so one isn’t required to wind it or open it. The tone can be customised by altering the pitch and the tonality can also be selected.

In all, 1,300 parts are accommodated within a small case. An ‘infernal tower’— approximately 12 mm in size and comprising 19 levels—indicates and guides the reading of the time. Nestled along with the infernal tower are the tourbillon and time indication as well.

What is interesting to note is that a single watchmaker works on the watch from start to finish. The assembling of the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque—the second in the Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret line—takes over 150 man hours. After assembling, each watch is made to undergo 1,000 hours of rigorous testing.

The Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque timepiece was initially issued in a special platinum limited edition of 75 pieces. This pièce de résistance was the outcome of six years of research and development carried out by the company.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REDEFINES THE TERM ‘SAFEKEEPING’
As if the range of complications wasn’t enough to wow your senses, Jaeger-LeCoultre goes a step further and ensures that the watches will be delivered to you in the safest possible manner. Bearing the words Dottling Handmade, special walk-in-size safes were crafted in Germany. Weighing 800 kgs each, the safe features leather on the exterior and interior—ideal to safeguard your watches. An exceptional opening/ closing system keeps the Jaeger- LeCoultre logo intact. Safely ensconced within the case, the three watches are unarguably exclusive. Besides this, the safe also offers the space and setting to store other watches from your overall collection. It also comes with a set of basic tools, similar to those used by watchmakers; we recommend using them at your own risk

RETRACING THE STEPS: HERITAGE GALLERY
Located in the heart of the establishment, the Heritage Gallery opened its doors on October 4, 2007. This year, the exhibition is focussed on Maison de Complications. During our visit to the gallery, a special exhibit of Jaeger-LeCoultre minute repeaters was arranged. Sébastian Vivas, curator of the Heritage Gallery took us around this space, which is bursting with history. From the pignon that started it all to the Reverso line of watches, the gallery has all this and more! While touring the gallery, Vivas explained the two golden rules practised by Jaeger-LeCoultre. These include exhaustiveness and excellence. In the case of the first, all finished watches including calibre, movement and case are tested for 1,000 hours. Whereas the principle of excellence is underlined by the fact that at Jaeger- LeCoultre, the watch is tested in the actual conditions it will eventually be worn in.

Is it any surprise then that the brand has put together the Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret line—a celebration of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanical expertise and technological know-how?