Blast from the past

Every old watch has a history to tell and that’s what makes them unique, discovers Aindrila Mitra.

Time’s ticking away and your watch captures every second of the day that has passed by. And probably that’s the reason why certain watches have special significance attached to them - they’ve been around for years and have well earned their title of being vintage or antique pieces. According to businessman Yasho Saboo, who started the ‘Passion-for-Time Watch Heritage Club’ in the country (for antique watch collectors), “Watches that are more than forty-years-old can usually be designated as antique pieces.

Vintage watches, as the name suggests, are basically known for their age.” Saboo got attracted to classic timepieces when he inherited an antique watch. His 1961 Jaeger LeCoultre, an automatic watch with an alarm, holds distinct importance in his life. “I believe old watches are always more special because there is so much of history and heritage involved. You hardly find people buying old watches, most of them are part of an inheritance and you attain them through lineage,” adds this owner of Ethos, a watch store that first opened up in Chandigarh. He feels collectors have increased in number over the last few years. Saboo claims, “You actually need a passion for such exclusive pieces and an eye to know which old piece can be classified as an antique watch.”

Antique watches can be both branded and unbranded. According to watch lover Asif Nagariya who has been closely associated with the watch industry for the last 12 years, “Even non-branded original Swiss-made watches have a life-line of over 200 years.” However, he does stress the fact that these watches do need to be preserved and taken care of to make them ticking years after their date of manufacture. It is essential to keep the old pieces clean and in safe containers.

Watches that fascinate Asif are the 1910-made Rolex watches and Titoni of the 1930s. However his prized possession is a 1935 stainless steel Omega with a blue dial that he inherited from his grandfather. Being a repairer himself, Asif believes that refurbishing old watches is not very difficult. “With respect to branded watches, make sure that parts of their old lines are remade to fix the vintage timepieces,” he advises.

For Saboo, brands like Patek Philippe with their 1960s’ creations, the Rolex chronometers of the 1960s, Omega watches dating back to the 1950s are some of the best watches in the vintage artworks line. Some vintage watches that attract Saboo include those owned by some of the members of his watch club: an inheritance from Maharaja Scindia of Gwalior and watches belonging to Lieutenant General J.F.R Jacob. However, the one piece that tops Saboo’s most wanted list is a 1920 Vacheron Constantin wristwatch that has the navaratnas embedded in it.

Talking about pricing of old watches, Saboo replies, “Contrary to popular belief, all vintage watches are not very expensive. The price varies. You could get old watches for a few thousands whereas the most expensive old watch is priced at 6.2 million Swiss francs and the piece concerned is made of stainless steel with no jewels. Watches are priced by their make.” As P. Mitra, a clock collector comments, “Watch collection, especially antique ones, is an emotional experience where money has little role to play. It’s a passion to hold on to old times.”

Watch out for these vintage watches:

• Circa, 1793 priced at $1,275: 18th century English verge watch, which has signed and numbered full plate movement
• Circa, 1940 priced at $2,000: A fine and rare 14 carat gold Circa 1940 Tiffany & Company, bubble back with an off-white dial and phosphoric Arabic numeral hour designations.
• Pocket watch Brenner, 1904 priced at $ 1,350: 14 carat yellow gold Pocket Watch with Hunting Case. “Brenner”, and 24” 14 karat antique cable chain.
• Rolex, 1930 priced at $2,000: Rare solid gold Rolex watch for men with white dial and manual winding movement and black leather band.

Trivia on dated timepieces:

• Features and complications that are most desirable and expensive in modern watches are commonplace in even mid-level watches produced up until the 1970s.
• While most vintage watches are less expensive than modern watches, condition is everything in terms of enjoyment of acquiring vintage watches. The price of a vintage watch reflects its condition, and unless you enjoy the watch yourself, it’s better to pay more for watches in excellent condition than to pay less for beat-up watches.
• And last but not the least, one can assemble a watch wardrobe of a sports chronograph, daily watch and dress watch within an amount which is less than what any of these watches would cost from the same brands in the modern watch market!