A watch is a watch is a watch? Not so, if you go by the complications that make up a timepiece. To simplify which, we kick off a column starting this issue. FAQs. Have question, will answer.

By Gurjeet Singh Dahri

Send us your queries on timenstyle@indiatimes.com

What does it mean when a watch says 17 jewels or 19 jewels?
Manoj Agrawal, Jabalpur

Jewels are synthetic sapphires, rubies or real stones, which serve as bearings for gears thereby reducing the friction of mechanical parts to a bare minimum. Going by a basic principle, a simple hand-wound mechanical watch with hours, minutes and seconds hands should include at least 15 jewels located in places most subject to wear due to friction. It will not really matter if there are more jewels with these simple functions. With an increase in the number of complications, however, the number of jewels does increase. A maximum of 23 jewels in a hand-wound watch are enough. The count will rise by four-eight jewels in case of automatic watches.

What is the significance of 'Swiss Made' on a watch?
Rahul Mehrotra, Mumbai

'Swiss Made' is a legend that signifies a concept of quality, which has taken years to make and maintain. It certifies a certain level of quality in accuracy, design and reliability. Moreover, there is a law that stipulates certain minimum conditions that have to be met before a watch can wear the 'Swiss Made' label. This law does not require the whole watch to be made in Switzerland. Rather it is based on the amount of work on a watch that is actually carried out there. One can use foreign components in the watch. What is important is that the assembly of the movement, which is the mechanism that makes it run; and of the watch - this involves the fitting of the movement with the dial, hands, etc - should be done in Switzerland. It is also essential that 50 per cent of the parts used in the movement are of Swiss origin.

What is a movement? Are there different types of movements?
Girish Sachdeva, Mumbai

A movement is the heart of a watch. It is the assembly consisting of the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock. There are very few types of movements. Quartz: In terms of accuracy in timekeeping, quartz watches are superior to mechanical ones or as good. In the quartz movement the battery powers the quartz crystal which then vibrates at an incredibly high frequency. This powers the integrated circuit to create one-second pulses that drive a tiny electric motor, which is connected to the standard gears to drive the hands.

Mechanical: A mechanical watch keeps time by regulating the release of energy from a wound spring through a set of gears. It differs from the typical quartz watch in that it uses purely mechanical components to keep time. The key to a mechanical watch's accuracy lies in its escapement, whose job it is to ensure that the unwinding of the spring occurs at a consistent, regular rate. Solar: Light generates electricity to power the quartz movement in these watches.

Kinetic: This technology uses the movement of your arms to power a quartz movement. Kinetic watches do not need batteries.

I have just bought a mechanical watch. Since it is very expensive, how often should I service it?
Deepa Reddy, Hyderabad

Mechanical and automatic watches should be cleaned and serviced every three years to ensure trouble-free timekeeping. Do not leave long periods like 10 years or more between servicing your mechanical watch. You see, a mechanical watch balance wheel makes at least 18,000 vibrations per minute (in more modern watches, this number can go up to 28,800-36,000). As a result, it will not take long for the parts to start wearing out once the lubrication is gone. You can compare this to running your car for 20 years without an oil change. It is not advisable to keep your mechanical watch away in a safe or locker for years, even if it has just been serviced. A mechanical watch needs to be wound and run from time to time if for nothing else but to keep the lubrication in the watch from congealing.

What is a chronometer?
Chandan Naik, Kalyan

If your watch is a chronometer (it will say so on the dial), it means that your Swiss timepiece meets the high standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC). As per the regulations, the movement's performance is recorded under varying conditions and expected to maintain time to within -4 to +6 seconds per day. The movement is subjected to temperatures ranging from extreme heat to extreme cold. It is also exposed to a full power run down (in case of mechanical watches) to test the watch's power reserve, which should be in excess of 43 hours. In short, it means that you own a watch with a movement of the highest quality.

How is a diver's watch different from any other watch?
Rashesh K, Kandivali

In layman terms, a diver's watch is one that will be reliable even in water. For which purpose, it should meet various standards pertaining to water resistance, pressure resistance, readability in water, anti-magnetic and anti-shock ability, resistance to rust in salt water, ability to withstand sudden temperature changes and so on.

What is a complication in a watch?
Ramaa Ramani, Thane

At its simplest best, a watch shows the hours, minutes and seconds. Any measurement function in addition to this is a complication. So calendar watches, dual-time watches, chronograph watches, watches with alarm, minute repeater, moonphase and perpetual calendar are all watches with complications.