He significance of jewellery varies the world over. In many parts of the world, jewellery takes on a sentimental connotation. Whereas for some, jewellery is just an expression of style, for others, jewellery represents a good investment option. Different parts of the world have jewellery that represent an amalgamation of the culture, tradition and often, the historical past of that region. Jewellery, in that sense, is truly a reflection of a country’s identity.

India
In the Hindu, Jain and Sikh communities, jewellery is a major component of the streedhana (gifts given to a woman at the time of her marriage). Jewellery, because of its easy convertibility into cash, is thus regarded as security and investment.

Jewellery as an investment and identity marker is evident in the plethora of ornaments worn by people from nomadic and migrant tribal communities. It is not uncommon to find Banjara (gypsy) women wearing a wide variety of silver jewellery. A profusion of earrings in various sizes, bangles of bone, shell and ivory extending from the wrist to the shoulder along with silver bracelets, chokers, pendants and necklaces, nose rings and heavy anklets are worn by most of the migrant groups, especially in Western India.

The setting of precious gems and stones in rings, pendants, necklaces and bracelets gained prominence due to the belief that these stones are associated with certain powers. In Bengal, it is common to find iron, silver and gold wires twisted together to form a bracelet, a combination, which according to popular belief gives the wearer health and strength.

Looking back, historical records show that Indian jewellers mastered the various skills required to make fine jewellery quite early — mixing alloys, moulding, drawing fine wires, setting stones, inlay work, relief, drawing gold and silver into thin wires, plating and gilding. In smaller centres, the goldsmith may perform all the processes involved in producing a finished piece. In cities, the different operations are undertaken by separate people — the goldsmith prepares the skeletal framework, the chatera engraves, the kundansaaz or jaria sets the stones while the meenasaaz enamels it.

Different regions of India boast of jewellery making styles unique to them. In Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, fine filigree work in silver, in Jaipur the art of enameling or meenakari, temple jewellery from Nagercoil and kundan or the setting of semi-precious or precious stones in gold from Delhi. A wide variety of silver beads are found all over India, especially in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh.

In filigree work, patterns of leaves, flowers, butterflies, birds and geometrical shapes are made with silver wires of varying thickness. The skilled jewellers draw out fine wires of silver mixed with a little bit of lead and make an outline of the pattern in thick wire. Fine wires are then collected inside the framework to create a delicate lace-like appearance.

Meenakari and kundan are the styles of jewellery-making influenced by the Mughals and are usually used in combination to make jewellery that can be worn on both sides such as chokers and necklaces. The temple jewellery of Nagercoil consists of traditional gold ornaments studded with red and green semi-precious stones. These were used as offerings to the Gods and hence the name. Today, some of these designs are being made in silver and then washed with gold.

In Assam, soft 24-carat gold is fashioned into earrings and necklaces modeled on the local flora and fauna-earrings like the hona, which replicate the orchid and the lokaparo, which consists of two birds placed back to back. In Nagaland, gold is used to craft imitations of the human head and long funnel shaped beads which are used in combination with shells, animal claws and teeth and precious and semi-precious stones.

The designs in solid gold jewellery of Tamil Nadu and Kerala are inspired by nature. The paisley motif or the ambi, rice grains, the cobra’s hood, melon and cucumber seeds are some of the common motifs. Silversmiths of Himachal Pradesh craft large ornaments, which have a very delicate and intricate appearance. Headdresses called chak, long earrings and large nose-rings with papal leaf or bird motifs are the specialties of the region. In Ladakh, silver charm boxes and headdresses called perak with rows of turquoise; cornelian, coral and agate stitched onto it are quite common.

Indian jewellery has a unique look to it and the use of many different techniques is what distinguishes it from any other part of the world. The bangle or ‘Kadaa’ made in 18k or 22k gold using enamel or meenakari, encrusted with uncut diamonds, coloured stones (rubies or emeralds) or pearls is what makes this piece of jewellery something all women love to adorn themselves with. It’s a piece that definitely makes a statement. All the colours used in enamelling, along with the intricate floral patterns or animal heads carved on the metal is something irresistible, adding flair to the piece.

Africa
Fascinating new breakthroughs in archaeological and anthropological investigations into African art, empires and societies, scientifically prove that the great cultures of sub-Sahara Africa from the past – Nok, Igbo, Benin, Akan, Zimbabwe and South Africa (Mapungubwe) amongst others, represented complex societies and during the same period great parts of Europe were still living in the dark ages. Bearing the above in mind, Africans and people from around the world are now able to fully appreciate the complex diversity and incredible creativity of past and present African civilizations.

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