Dainty Resilience

Delicate yet functional, ceramic can be moulded into more than just dinnerware and dolls. NEHA NAIR explores the role of ceramics in watchmaking.

True luxury is always evolving. When it comes to wristwatches, the materials have always kept developing — from metal to rubber to ceramic.
If you’re uncomfortable about adorning leather and fur straps, then ceramic is for you. A unique property of ceramic straps is that unlike metal, they don’t feel cold against your skin because of their capacity to absorb the wearer’s body temperature. It’s 30 per cent lighter than steel, making it the perfect ally for fashion or couture watches as well.

The Process
IWC Schaffhausen was the first brand to develop a full ceramic case on the Da Vinci watch in 1986. Ceramic is also incorporated as part of the bezel in the Ingenieur Automatic 44mm. At IWC, the extremely pure, almost white ceramic powder is coloured before further processing. First, it is compressed to the form of the pre-blank. This process also removes potential blow holes. The blank is pre-formed with cutting tools. The compressed powder is then baked in an oven at temperatures that vary between 1,500 and 2,0000C. The intense heat of the baking process forms zirconium oxide, an ultra-hard substance; irreversibly transforming the microscopic powder particles into a highly dense and compact solid. A complex cooling process that follows ensures that the highly sensitive lattice-like structure is retained. The case is then shaped with diamond tipped tools employing an exceptional level of skilled craftsmanship.
Gianfranco D’Attis, Brand Manager of IWC says, “Ceramic brings complexity to the development of the watch. It is unique because it is a very difficult material to work with. Milling the case from a single block of the material is extremely complex and makes its production almost as expensive as gold.” This high-performance ceramic, also known as engineering ceramic, has been exclusively used in computers and cars, as well as in the manufacture of surgical instruments. No other material is able to withstand such high temperatures or such mechanical and chemical extremes.

The Advantages
The popularity of ceramic lies in the fact that it is not very hard to maintain. At Rado, Switzerland, ceramic plays a large role in most of the present collection. Ceramica, Sintra, Integral, and True are collections that make extensive use of ceramic. With over two decades of experience in developing watches with ceramic components, Rado certainly possesses the know-how. They say, “High-tech ceramic is not very brittle. The timepiece needs to be protected from extreme shock. Rado believes that the most important factor in the reliability of a ceramic watch depends on the manner in which it is constructed.” Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot elaborates on the maintenance factor, “The light weight, anti-allergic and the anti-scratch quality of ceramic makes it the best material for a watch.” As the fortified ceramic is a very high quality ceramic with very strong resistance, what has to be considered is the shock resistance. The watch should be resilient enough to not break when it falls or receives a strong impact or shock. “There is absolutely no maintenance required for a ceramic watch. Probably the only material that requires absolutely no maintenance. Just enjoy the watch,” he exclaims. A big advantage of ceramic comes from the new avenues of colour that it has opened up. Biver finds that ceramic has given the watchmaking world interesting colour combinations, possible only by use of ceramic. He promises, “The colour of a ceramic watch is eternal. The colour will never fade or change, or reflect even the smallest scratch.” Another interesting quality of ceramic is that it is totally hypo-allergenic. This skin-friendly and non-reactive quality of ceramic makes it a favourite of connoisseurs with sensitive needs.

The Future
Patrick Normand, MD, Cartier Middle East and South Asia thinks ceramic is definitely a revolution. He comments, “Ceramic is a very strong, durable material that can withstand extreme temperatures and conditions. It is also flexible and light in weight. This new revolutionary material is fast becoming popular and will be seen incorporated in watches, and especially in jewellery.”
D’Attis is of the opinion that ceramic will continue to be used in high quality watchmaking where toughness is a consideration. The technical development and enhanced manufacturing processes will facilitate the production of smaller and more complex case and movement components. Biver believes that it is becoming increasingly obvious to everyone, that ceramic is the best adapted material for a watch. He predicts a strong growth trend for ceramic watches.

Lastly, Rado signs off with this promise, “Rado will keep researching for a new generation of ceramics that promises to be lighter and better, to ensure better comfort for watch owners.”

Some of the models that incorporate ceramic as a component

RADO
True DECO
The Rado True range combines cutting –edge technology with innovative design. Staying true to the range, the Rado True Deco is constructed of high-tech ceramic where the design flows flawlessly from the bracelet to the case. The highlight of the watch is the tribal design that has been incorporated in a trendy and classy way. The Rado True Deco is available in three different versions — satin-brushed and decorated black high-tech ceramics or polished and decorated black or platinum-coloured high-tech ceramic.

CARTIER
Pasha Seatimer
The Pasha Seatimer incorporates ceramic inside the watch, in its chronograph components. Ceramic is used in the bezel ring with Clou de Paris decor and in its chronograph push-pieces which are embellished with black ceramic Clou de Paris decor.

IWC
Ingenieur Automatic 44mm
This watch has a ceramic bezel. It is made of ceramic and stainless steel. In the latest evolution of the Ingenieur Automatic 44mm, only the centre of the three-part case is made of stainless steel, while the bezel and the screw–down glass mounting for the case back are made of black ceramic material. The 80111 calibre manufactory movement serves as a mechanical watch drive mechanism.

HUBLOT
Big Bang ‘Black Magic’
This watch is constructed entirely with ceramic. Ceramic polished finish is used for the lugs and ceramic brushed finish has been used for the bezel.