Innovative Virtuosity

To blend technology and art is a Herculean task, but Piaget has triumphed with its Protocole series. SUCHETA KANJILAL delves into the history and technology behind these exquisite timepieces.

In the world of haute horlogerie, no one is a stranger to the name that is Piaget. The iconic brand is one of the finest Swiss manufacturers of watches, who also benefit from an extensive knowledge of the jeweller’s art. With this, patrons of the brand can expect watchmaking expertise that meets with a superior aesthetic appeal.

The Protocole series, a wonderful creation by Piaget, ably combines all the attributes that the brand stands for — strong colours, exceptional design and the mastery of historical art alongside superior timekeeping technology. With this range of timepieces, grand feu enamelling plays with materials to create a visual delight designed to win over even the most sceptical of watch connoisseurs. Their exquisiteness makes it necessary to understand the history, tradition and technological breakthroughs that have gone into the making of this line of watches.

The Origins
In 1874, Georges Edouard Piaget founded the house of Piaget. Its first workshop in Jura was dedicated to creating only the finest watch movements. In 1934, the brand was officially registered and began to manufacture their line of watches. “Always do better than necessary” was the motto that the founder and his staff put to practice. By 1956, Piaget had launched the first ultra-thin movement of the Calibre 9P, and thus carved a niche for itself in the world of timekeeping. The brand dedicated all its energies to the creation of better movements and consequently, better watches. The year 1960 marked a new milestone for the company, as their Calibre 12P went on to be recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records as the thinnest self-winding movement (2.3 mm) in the world. The house also became a “Swiss exception” and expanded its know-how to gold treatment and gem setting by acquiring workshops in Geneva. This indicated an intuition for the popularity of jewelled watches in the years to come, which eventually made Piaget a brand to be reckoned with.

Miss Protocole: A New Wave
In 1998, Piaget launched a series that would be iconic in its elegance and superior craftsmanship — Miss Protocole. A unique feature that the Miss Protocole watches boasts of is the interchangeable strap. The watch has a strap attached to its dial, and is also delivered with an alternate strap. Buyers can choose from materials as varied as mink, possession chain, blue alligator and muslin.
Examples of exceptional watches from the Miss Protocole series include that of the classic small watch, which has a case made of 18-carat gold and set with diamonds, complementing the superior mother-of-pearl dial. A clasp that is integrated with the watch strap bespeaks an unusual yet fascinating panache. Other watches in the small watch range encompass unusual designs such as watch cases wherein diamonds are set on the Arabic numerals or placed in a stunning pattern, which is reminiscent of a tennis court. All of these watches are equipped with Piaget’s trademark 57P quartz movement. The larger watch, Miss Protocole XL is unique in itself, as its large size grants the makers a bigger canvas to create superior works of art, and a heart that beats with technological excellence. Here, grand feu enamelling is used to produce designs that exude femininity while seeking inspiration from nature. While an earlier series made use of the cherry flower motif in its enamel work, the recent range of Miss Protocole XL watches draws on the beauty of the ocean to create stunning timepieces. Beaches are evoked by white or pink seashells that adorn two models featuring opaque enamels; while starfish and coral in translucent enamel illustrate reefs and atolls. Each of the models in the latest series is crafted in a limited edition of four, easily translating into a collector’s delight.

Miniature Enamelling: Artistic Splendour
The grand feu enamelling is based on the champlevé technique, which helps create an uninterrupted motif that decorates the dial and the case. This technique largely depends on the artisans who are involved in the engraving, enamelling and gem-setting.
Composed of glass and metallic oxides that give the product the required colour and nuances, grand feu enamel melts at a temperature of over 800oC. The motifs, such as the seashells or cherry flower are first delicately engraved in solid gold. The enameller then hollows out certain areas while protecting the outlines, carefully fashioning the breadth and depth of the grooves to produce the desired artistic effect. The raw materials are ground to a fine powder, and mixed with oils to achieve the required colour palette. This mixture is then applied in fine layers with a brush. After the application of each layer, the piece is oven-fired at temperatures exceeding 800oC. With each stage, the enameller adds another depth to create an appealing picture. The final phase involves the application of a transparent enamel coating following which the piece is once again oven-fired.
After this, in order to facilitate the bejewelled brilliance that the series is famous for, Miss Protocole models are placed in the expert hands of the gem-setters in Piaget. Each of the models is entirely set by hand — with anything between 144 and 193 diamonds, depending on the motif. During this process, the gem-setters take care not to touch, scratch or damage the delicate enamelling on the watchcase.

Protocole XXL: Distinct Identity
The XXL version of the Protocole series also comprises exceptional watches that make the best of art and technology. These wristwatches feature a generously sized white gold case that plays on the subtle alternation between polished and satin-brushed. The silver dial is rimmed with a sunburst guilloché motif. The cambered sapphire crystal follows the upper curve of the case to perfection. At the heart of this model lies the Calibre 830P, a mechanical hand-wound movement that is just 2.5 mm thick. This movement features a large balance with screws and a large barrel, which ensures a 65-hour power reserve. The trademark aesthetic codes in the watch are distinguished by circular Côtes de Genève blued screws and the inscription “Manufacture Piaget” followed by the movement number. This watch is also available in pink gold and gem-set white gold versions.

Protocole jewellery: Bedazzled
Seeking inspiration from the Miss Protocole series of watches, Piaget has created a line of jewellery that goes by the same name and borrows many elements of design from it. Rings and pendants reveal the easily identifiable structure of the Miss Protocole series and create jewellery that incites delight even among the most elegant of wearers. The rings are all made of 18 carat white or yellow gold. Some of them are embedded with princess cut precious stones combined with diamonds and others with diamonds alone. The former combines lusciously colourful stones such as the regal amethyst and the serene blue topaz. These are set off with the traditional and timeless elegance of diamonds. The 18 carat white gold pendants tie in the latest trends in jewellery with the feminine lugs of the original design of the series.
Aesthetics and technology rarely find such a unique and appealing amalgamation as is evident in the Protocole range of timepieces. A triumph in the art of watchmaking and one of Piaget’s most celebrated series, its distinctive style and elegance sets it apart from its contemporaries. Truly, these watches exemplify the superior craftsmanship of its creators and the impeccable taste of its wearers.