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Omar Chaoui, Marketing Manager, Harry Winston, speaks to Veyoleen Mehrotra about their latest creations and the brand’s positioning in the world of luxury watchess


Tell us about your collection at Baselworld this year.
Since, we have introduced quite a few novelties; Baselworld was exciting this year. We wanted to enhance the strengths of our existing collections. Hence, we made some variations to what we had before.

The very first watch that Harry Winston made for men was the Perpetual Calendar, which was successful at the time. So this year, we reintroduced the new Perpetual Calendar that features all the elements that are a part of the DNA — off-centre display, retrograde indicators for days and months etc.

There is one that we are reintroducing for the ladies, where we are revamping the Avenue, which is a classic timepiece. We have modified it to include a new oval-shaped dial encrusted with diamonds. Some of the other pieces include high jewellery watches like the Duchess in which we have used our own movements and superior quality diamonds. Of course, one can’t forget the Opus series.

It has now become an annual feature. The Opus 7 is slightly similar to the Opus 5. We developed a new way to tell the time. To put it simply, the Opus 7 gives you time on demand. There are four main collections of Harry Winston — the Avenue, the Opus, the Excenter Perpetual Calendar and the Ocean. To each one of these collections, we have added new watches. So, we’ve added to our existing collections.

What has inspired these new features?
In terms of trends, rose gold is very big right now, both in the female and the male segment. Among the new additions, the Ocean Lady Bi-retro is available in rose gold. We have introduced rose gold with diamonds for the ladies. So, it is evident that we listen to the market trends and try to incorporate the same in watchmaking. Without selling our soul to the devil, we try to keep our DNA and our personality intact. We listen and respond to what the market wants without putting our ideas into jeopardy.

What are the trends in terms of shapes and motifs?
In the past few years, there was a race to create really big watches and the size kept growing — I believe that the trend for big watches is still on. However, the sizes have now stabilised. For gents, it’s around 40 mm up to 54 mm. For ladies, it is anywhere between 34 mm to 39 or 40 mm. And these are large sizes because when you look back almost 15 years ago, a ladies’ size today was considered as a gents watch.

Which is your favourite timepiece?
My favourite watch is the new Ocean Diver, which is a sports watch and a modern interpretation of a diver’s watch. The case is made of white gold and Zallium, which is an alloy exclusive to Harry Winston. It has a simple chronograph function that can handle a depth of up to 200 metres. There is a nice touch to it because the hands that indicate the seconds, the hours etc. are bright red, which is in complete contrast to the dial that is black.

HOw would you define the positioning of Harry Winston?
We maintain a very limited production output compared to some of the other brands. In addition to this, we have an exclusive distribution network on a global level. All these practices enable us to position ourselves as the ultimate brand.

Would you define your watches as a watchmaker’s watch or a jeweller’s watch?
Today, the frontiers between a watchmaker and a fashion brand in the traditional sense have blurred. One can find traditional watchmakers offering very fashionable watches or a jeweller who produces respectable mechanical complications and so on. So it would be a mistake to classify brands today, the way we used to 15 years ago.

So, who are your competitors?
For us, a competitor is any brand that makes a consumer hesitate between a Harry Winston and the product. In the ladies’ segment, Piaget would definitely be one of our competitors. In the male segment, we could consider Vacheron Constantin as our competitor. But again, even if a person hesitates between buying a car and a Harry Winston and he buys the car, that car is competition for us!


 

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