Cocktail rings are quite the rage in the fashion world today. However, in spite of their modern designs and bold look, the history of the quintessential cocktail ring goes a bit further into the past than most people realise.

Back in time
Cocktail rings were first worn by women at illegal cocktail parties that were held surreptitiously during the infamous Prohibition Era in the United States in the 1920s. The statement that these cheap, usually glass rings made, was not only that these women were willing to flout the fashion of their time (characterised by small and dainty jewellery) but flout a repressive law as well. The cocktail ring made an emphatic comeback in the 1940s and 1950s, where the end of the war ushered in a period of excess and flamboyance. An expensive version of this ring was born, replete with diamonds or other large precious and semi-precious stones.

Style Statement
Today, the cocktail ring has settled somewhere in the middle, catering to both excessive and casual tastes. However, its bohemian aura still continues to be its biggest attraction. Jewellery designer, Mariam Khan has a specific term for them. “Cocktail rings are definite ‘style-makers’; at the same time, they exude the personality of the person wearing it,” she says.

These rings also preclude the need to wear heavy jewellery. Khan adds, “In the summer especially, people don’t want to wear heavy jewellery or chunky chandeliers, which can irritate the skin. A cocktail ring is an accessory that can complete your look even if you’re not wearing anything in your ears or your hands and legs. It makes you stand out and get noticed.” Jewellery designer, Manali Vengsarkar agrees, “When it comes to evening wear, you can adorn yourself with nice earrings and one big cocktail ring and still stand out in a crowd.” In fact, for maximum impact, it is recommended that if you’re wearing a cocktail ring, you should preferably keep the rest of your jewellery simple.

Bare essentials
While cocktail rings come in varying shapes and sizes, they all share certain key features. Firstly, they should be big in size, which make them instant attention-grabbers. These rings usually contain stones measuring about half an inch in width to begin with, moving on to the largest that weigh 50 carats.

Cocktail rings should also be colourful — emeralds, rubies, sapphires are the stones most commonly used in the high end variety. Biren Vaidya, MD, Rose Group and a jewellery designer himself says, “Today, diamonds in different colours such as champagne or cognac are being used.

” Amongst semi-precious stones, amethysts, peridots, garnets, onyx and golden topaz are popular. Cocktail rings should also be devoid of sentimental attachment — for instance, they are rarely bought as gifts. Eventually, the wearer herself is the best judge of the ideal cocktail ring.

Casual accessory
While the name might suggest that they be worn at formal, evening occasions, cocktail rings are now making their presence noticed in casual wear as well. As Khan notes, “Its surprising — cocktail rings are the new in-thing for young girls today. Girls in college are flaunting rings with emeralds and rubies — these rings are certainly not age-bound.” At the same time, cocktail rings might not be the most suitable choice of accessory at the workplace. As Vengsarkar remarks, “You wouldn’t see working women in the corporate sector wear cocktail rings to the office, unless they were going out to a business lunch or a party.”

The new trend of using faux stones in cocktail rings has made it an affordable choice for women of all ages. However, not all women may be able to carry off a cocktail ring. Khan believes that such rings might look too bulky on those with a petite frame. Instead, a larger frame sporting a cocktail ring looks more elegant although there are no strict rules. Eventually, as jewellery designer, Renu Mehra reveals, anybody with the right amount of confidence can pull off this eye-catching accessory.

New face?
Cocktail rings have been seen in new avatars in recent years. Khan states that pearls with diamonds are the new hot combination this season. Mehra opines, “Mixed stones are the new craze. Pearls are mixed with rubies and emeralds. The more affluent go for precious stones such as Columbian and Zambian emeralds, Thai and Burmese rubies and South Sea pearls.” Precious stones may also be mixed with semi-precious ones. Mehra who retails her jewellery collection exclusively from Mahesh Notandass Fine Jewellery store, recently designed a cocktail ring with emeralds and citrine, an amber coloured semi-precious stone.

As Vaidya reveals, “Cocktail rings never went out of fashion. But they have certainly changed. Earlier, cocktail rings contained large center-stones. Today, they are no longer outrageously large. A lot of my rings include 3D designing, wherein the rings are not flat, but have gems placed at different levels.”

So are cocktail rings here to stay or are they just a fad soon on its way out? The industry is divided on that. However, everyone agrees that since cocktail rings made of precious stones are huge investments, people who own these rings aren’t going to be severing their ties with them anytime soon. As Mehra notes, “Cocktail rings of the precious stone variety start at Rs. 3 lakh and go up to Rs. 10 lakh.” So whether the fashion radar judges them to be in or out, cocktail rings are definitely going to be sported for some time to come.

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