High Life...

Oceanic splendour
Inspired by her name, her designs reflect the treasures hidden within the ocean. Jewellery designer, VARUNA D. JANI speaks to VEYOLEEN MEHROTRA on her inclination towards jewellery designing and her dreams for the future...

 


When and how did your tryst with designing begin?
I have always been fascinated with jewellery — I grew up watching my father, Ramchand Popley, at his workplace surrounded by craftsmen. Even as a kid, I used to sketch jewellery designs. In 2006, I decided to use my expertise gathered over the years, to create a brand of exclusive couture jewellery.
 
Do you Have any professional training in designing?
Although I haven’t received any professional training, I have been influenced by my family’s jewellery business. Their continuing presence meant that I started sketching designs even as a child.
 
where do you derive your inspiration for unique designs?
My name ‘Varuna’ means water and is the inspiration for all my jewellery. My designs are reflective of the ocean — waves, fish scales, corals and other sea life. My jewellery pieces are big in size and the designs are clutter-free.

what are the challenges you faced when you started out?
I always knew that I wanted my jewellery to be at par with international standards. Initially, it was difficult for me to get quality craftsmanship as the Indian karigars were unwilling to block their workers for such a long time, a requisite for such intricate work. I had to travel across the globe to get that kind of craftsmanship. I set up a unit in Mumbai because I did not want to compromise on the quality of the diamonds. Sometimes the diamonds wouldn’t fit within the sockets as the sockets/ mountings were made abroad and the diamonds were from here. We set up a quality control department whereby each piece was checked thoroughly after every process.
 
What are Your designs about and how do they reflect upon you as a person?
My jewellery is about celebrating precious moments in a woman’s life. The designs are made for the woman of today, who is influenced by the West, yet deep down in her heart is an Indian. My designs are a portrayal of my thoughts and passion. My jewellery is meant for all occasions. Personally, I love wearing jewellery that has a formal touch and is representative of a classic design.
  
What are the materials that you experiment with in creating jewellery?
I use only Belgium-cut diamonds and offer a variety of fancy cuts like marquise, pear, emerald etc. We use only precious stones like rubies and emeralds of one carat and above as these enhance the jewellery. Our jewellery is prêt — the pieces are detachable and its USP is its versatility and the changeable stone concept.

Who is your target audience?
Beyond want or need, lies desire. I am passionate about creating objects of such beauty that they will kindle unbridled desire amongst those who believe they have everything they need.
 
There are a number of international jewellery brands present in the Indian market. How do you plan to tackle this competition? How different are your designs from your contemporaries?
We are one of the few jewellers in India to concentrate on craftsmanship over other factors. Each piece takes about six to nine months to complete, from the designing stage to the finished product. We are aware of the investment that goes into making such jewellery. However, our aim is to create products that are superior; each piece is handcrafted as against the international market where they have machine made casted jewellery. Consumers no longer need to pay a higher premium for an international brand when local designers can guarantee better value for money, superior quality and design, which is in sync with the traditional values of the Indian woman.


 

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