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it’s no longer de rigueur to dress up to the hilt with diamonds
and platinum. Crystal  jewellery
is emerging as a worthy challenge to diamonds, especially among
the younger generation.
Back to the roots
Interestingly, cut glass or crystal has been around for 2000
years, since the dawn of the Mesopotamian culture when lead oxide
was used to enhance the brilliance of glass. In 1676, George Ravenscroft
revolutionised the world of glassware — he enhanced the lustre and
clarity of glassware by creating pure lead crystal. This English
glassmaker experimented to improve the quality of glassware. They
found that by adding lead oxide to the molten mixture, the properties
of glass changed dramatically, increasing the clarity, weight and
refractive index. This process also softened the glass, making it
easy to cut without fracturing it. The procedure created lead crystal—
as we know it today.
 New
entrant
In 1982, Daniel Swarovski revolutionised the jewellery and
fashion industries by inventing a machine to cut crystal jewellery
stones, making it possible to create crystal beads and jewellery.
To protect his invention, he left his home and founded his company,
Swarovski in Wattens, Austria. Here, he used the Rhine River as
a source of energy to run the company’s machinery. This was the
inspiration behind the word ‘rhinestone’, later known as lead crystal.
For over a century now, Swarovski is the biggest crystal stone manufacturer
in the world and is synonymous with the word ‘crystal’.
 Style
Statement
Inspired by the Greek word, ‘krystallos’, crystal jewellery
is more a fashion statement than an investment option. Jewellery
designer, Neelam Kothari holds the same view, “Crystal jewellery
is all about fun, fashion and the latest trends. It allows for greater
experimentation and offers a wide range of options.” While naturally
formed crystals may have been used in the past, in recent times,
man-made crystals are gaining popularity. Their ability to mimic
the look and feel of precious diamonds and coloured gems make it
the preferred choice among manufacturers.
Designer Shobha Asar explains, “Crystals can be used in combination
with diamonds to create trendy jewellery for a younger clientele.”
Crystal Range
 Authentic
crystals used in precious jewellery range from macro crystals like
amethyst, citrine, rock crystal, smoky quartz and rose quartz to
cryptocrystalline stones like agate, onyx, jasper, sadonyx and chalcedony.
While crystals do occur naturally in many colours, the clear crystal
remains the overwhelming favourite. Natural crystals are used in
holistic treatments as well as for astrological purposes, whereas
man-made crystals are used for their beauty and fashion element.
Crystal-encrusted crowns and tiaras helped rulers rule wisely. Amethyst
was popularly used by religious leaders. It is clear that crystal
jewellery has been in existence for a long time. Archaeologists
have discovered early Egyptian handmade crystal jewellery made of
turquoise, lapis, jasper, amethyst, carnelian and malachite.
International Market
 Growing
awareness about the practicality and visual splendour of crystal
jewellery has helped boost the demand for it internationally. Increasing
fashion consciousness has led to ‘dressing up’ for formal occasions
and ‘dressing down’ for informal, yet elegant affairs. This has
translated into greater demand for classy crystal jewellery. Says
Shiv Kumar, Country Manager, Consumer Goods Business, Swarovski
India Pvt. Ltd., “The market for crystal jewellery has been growing
at almost 30 to 35 per cent every year. There is a gradual but distinct
shift in jewellery buying patterns, from purchasing customised jewellery
to branded jewellery. Rhea Nasta, Head Designer, Popley Group feels
that Indians are still partial to the ‘real’ thing. “Internationally,
crystal jewellery is worn for any occasion, including weddings.
While in India, crystal isn’t looked upon as an investment and people
still opt for diamonds as part of their trousseau,” she adds.
 The
most precious man-made crystal jewellery is Austrian crystal jewellery
which is characterised by delicate workmanship and elegant designs,
with stones of incredible refractive brilliance. Besides Austria,
some of the other countries that produce high-quality crystals include
Czechoslovakia, Germany, China and Israel among others. In India,
the love for crystal jewellery has only just begun, but it is growing
quickly, especially in the urban areas.
The Austrian crystal jewellery pieces are available in stunning
design options — from rhodium plated to yellow gold. The extensive
range includes bridal crystal jewellery, tiaras, jewellery for bridesmaids,
necklaces, pins, brooches, contemporary-styled earrings, pendants,
bracelets and rings. But the list doesn’t end here. Some of the
interesting pieces include hair accessories such as crystal barrettes,
headbands, hair sticks and jaw clips! Inspite of this wide range,
crystal jewellery will never subtitute diamonds. Nasta explains
that crystal jewellery is dictated by trends, whereas diamonds are
forever.
Internationally, crystal jewellery is also garnering a lot of attention
with celebrities featuring these deigns on the red carpet. Says
Kumar, “Worldwide, crystal has become synonymous with high fashion
and glamour. Modern lifestyle with its hectic pace calls for simple
accessories with high impact. The trend of adorning minimal accessories
is now catching on, even among women who want to express their distinctive
personalities.” So it appears that jewellery with avant garde designs
in sync with the latest fashion trends is here to stay. However,
jewellery designers feel differently. As Kothari explains, “Crystal
jewellery is considered trendy. Diamonds, on the other hand, are
eternal classics and heirlooms that can be passed down over generations.”
Asar agrees, “For bridal wear or special occasions, people still
prefer diamonds with some semi-precious stones like rubies and emeralds.”
Crystal variations
Crystal with its myriad colours, cuts and sizes lends itself
to creative expressions very easily and thus is a big influence
in shaping international fashion trends both on the ramp and on
the street. Crystal jewellery is typically crafted from 14-carat,
18-carat, 21-carat gold or sterling silver. Crystal jewellery shaped
like Celtic crosses and other devotional symbols are very popular
today for the sake of fashion rather than religious reasons. Crystal
chandelier earrings set in silver or gold coloured metal are quite
the rage.
Briolette-cut crystal is more affordable than precious gems and
is used to create jewellery chokers. In fact, Edwardian-styled crystal
necklaces and brooches were very popular in the 1950s and 1960s.
Today, as fashion comes a full circle, vintage designs and heirloom
pieces are very much in demand. Whether crystals or diamonds, each
have their own value and are as precious as can be.
Tips for purchasing and maintaining crystal jewellery
* Cut, clarity and colour are the three C’s which differentiate
high-quality crystal from poor imitations.
*As with any other fine and delicate material, the care instructions
are very important and in the case of crystal, it mainly calls for
simple regular cleaning with a lint free cloth.
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