Interview...
Changing directions ...
Thomas van der Kallen, PRESIDENT, EBEL WORLDWIDE, SPEAKS TO VEYOLEEN MEHROTRA ABOUT steerING the company in a new direction...


tell us about your experience with the Richemont Group.
I worked with the Richemont Group for 15 years at different positions, with different brands and in different parts of the world. I began in 1990 as a Sales and Marketing Manager for Piaget and Baumé & Mercier. My home country, the Netherlands and other Scandinavian countries fell under my purview.

In 1998, I moved to the United States as Vice President, Marketing, Baumé & Mercier. A year later, I was promoted as President for North America. In 2004, I concluded my experience with Richemont, and began my stint as President for Ebel worldwide in January 2005.
My time at Richemont has been extremely productive — working with different brands in different countries exposed me to different cultures. It helped me understand the luxury watch business.

why did you move to Ebel?
While in the United States, I found that the Movado Group was looking for someone who had the experience and understood the American market. It was crucial to Ebel’s success. After working with Richemont for 15 years, I felt the need for change. Moreover, the opportunity for me to become President for Ebel worldwide was too good to pass up.

Managing a luxury brand for a single market is different as compared to managing it on a worldwide scale. With the latter, you are at the source and you create rather than execute. Having been in the business for 15 years, I have had the opportunity to observe Ebel during this time. In the last decade, Ebel did face some difficulties with the change in ownership and subsequent changes in direction. However, it is a strongly-positioned brand with a clear identity and overall potential.

What are the challenges that you faced on joining a new company?
When I joined Ebel, the main challenge was ‘time’. The watch industry in totality had strongly developed in the last five years and Ebel needed to accelerate its growth to make up lost grounds in momentum and product development.

Since joining Ebel, what are the changes that you’ve initiated?
When Ebel changed ownership in 2004, the first objective was to reposition and rebuild the brand in accordance with its foundation. We called this exercise ‘Back to the Roots’. Basically, we redesigned all of our existing iconic collections to incorporate very distinctive Ebel qualities, which are softness, comfort, beauty and recognition. So, we revamped our collections and reintroduced the ‘Architects of Time’. Every aspect of our marketing programme represents the spirit of Ebel. In 2005, we decided to reintroduce the foundation of Ebel. This year, we infused freshness — in the luxury market, newness translates into excitement and we needed that element. However, one can’t introduce innovation without establishing a strong foundation. As a result, we did some restructuring and spent considerable time putting in place a dynamic team.

what was the response to Ebel’s ‘Back to the Roots’ campaign?
In 2004 at Basel, we communicated to our retailers and the press about the updated iconic collections. In spring 2006, we launched the Brasilia line and presented Gisele Bundchen as our ambassadress. Gisele who is an international supermodel reflects the values of Ebel — elegance, sophistication, energy, sexiness and glamour. This was our effort to reach out to a younger demographic and to continue to cater to a more mature audience.

What aspects of the Brasilia timepiece will appeal to the Indian consumer?
It’s a beautiful watch (smiles), soft, sensual and really distinct with its attention to detail. In India, most of the luxury watch brands are geared towards men. While, we do have a men’s collection, around 85 per cent of our business comes from ladies’ watches. Ebel is positioned as a ladies’ brand and the Brasilia is positioned as a ladies luxury’ diamond watch. More importantly, it is a great alternative to some of the other established brands here. If you look at our heydays, which were the 80s and early 90s, Ebel enjoyed a balanced image in terms of watches for both men and women. Today, Ebel is known as a ladies’ brand. For the future, we want to offer a balanced collection that caters to both men and women.

What are your plans for the future for Asia and especially India?
To give you some perspective, a third of our business is done in America, a third in Europe and a third in the Middle East and Asia. We operate in more than 60 countries and can be considered as a truly international brand. An emerging market like Southeast Asia and especially India is very important for us. It offers amazing potential. We want to be a part of that, early in the game. Although the Indian market is very limited, it does possess a huge potential because of the development of wealth. There is a strong interest in luxury products that have a history and legitimacy to it. With Ebel’s rich history and identity, it is bound to appeal to the discerning Indian consumer.

With so many luxury brands vying for attention, what distinguishes Ebel from the rest?
Ebel is an alternative to some of the more established brands. Our timepieces are understated, elegant and luxurious. It is for the buyer who is looking for something different in terms of quality and design.

What are Ebel’s future projects?
We want to maintain a clearly-defined product strategy, one that is based on four pillars. One of those pillars is the Brasilia Collection. The second pillar refers to the Beluga, a round-shaped jewelled watch. The third pillar is what Ebel is renowned for, the Ebel Classic timepiece. The last pillar refers to the Sportwave for men, a contemporary interpretation of the 1986 model. It has a sporty look with a classic edge that is easily recognisable. Every year in Basel, we introduce new watches rather than collections. This is because too many collections tend to confuse people about the company and its image.

Where do you see Ebel in the next 10 years?
Ebel will continue to develop as a leading Swiss luxury watch brand building on its strong heritage under a unique signature — The Architects of Time.


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