Geometric jewellery is in perfect sync with the current trend of minimalism that is popular all over the world, and provides a fascinating platform for individual artistic expression. The geometric power is characterised by clean straight lines that are static, and present a very neat no-frills, no-fuss look which goes very well with work jewellery, making it a perfect fit for today’s man or woman. It also provides a wide array of experimentation in the area of textures, finishes, colour or simply metal play. Overall, the look created is one which is stylish, clean and very chic. Geometric jewellery has its roots in Art Deco jewellery. When one thinks of Art Deco, one thinks of the roaring ‘20s, fast-paced and erratic.

The jewellery of the time certainly reflects this with its motifs denoting speed, geometric lines, as well as its dramatic interplay of colour. Art Deco artisans preferred a more symmetrical arrangement of geometric shapes in a repeated design. In fact, Art Deco-style jewellery has its origins in a variety of sources - scientific, artistic, and cultural. It evolved as a response to the desire for something different - just as fashion does - and reflected the current taste, trends and interests of the public. Art Deco was influenced by the German Bauhaus School of Design. Amongst other materials used were ebony, chrome, coral, bakelite and enamels, providing an enlarged palette of colours and textures. Art Deco artisans preferred a more symmetrical arrangement of geometric shapes in a repeated design and often used pyramids and stepped ziggurats; Art Deco shows more roses and camellias, and also baskets of flowers and fruit which were rendered in the geometric Cubist form. In later Art Deco pieces, jewellers chose panthers, tigers, antelopes, gazelles, birds, cats, and greyhounds as subjects. Figures of leaping gazelles and racing greyhounds conveyed a sense of speed and power, emphasising the recent technological accomplishments in aviation and automotive engineering.

Some Leading Art Deco Jewellers

• René Lalique - He made beautiful but fragile glass jewellery.
• Cartier - The jewellery shows strong Egyptian and Oriental influences and uses strongly contrasting coloured stones.
• Van Cleef & Arpels - They used simple shapes to show off a profusion of precious stones. Their pieces can all be identified dated by serial numbers.
• Gerard Sandoz - This designer used pronounced Cubist designs with strongly contrasting primary colours. He used few precious stones but is well known for eggshell lacquer and niello work.
• Raymond Templier - Famous for his very bold black & white geometric jewellery.

The precision of geometry
Golden squares, circles, spheres and triangles provide order in a world of chaos and complement the return to elegance and the classic SPB (simple black dress) for this year’s holiday outings. The sheer possibilities offered by geometric jewellery are endless. Let’s look at the square - high polished hammered gold squares that dangle or swish from bracelets, earrings or lariats, providing a variety of looks based on the one simple shape of a convex square. Or the perfect expression of the circle - multiple circles swirling like literal bubbles around sensual areas of the neck and wrist, perfect for party time. The variety of textures and patterns available is also astounding. The beaten gold look, the frosted look, the satin finished look, the scuffed look and the wooden surface look are few of the different textures that are possible to make this design form look more interesting and versatile to match the moods of the wearer. Bold and interesting patterns and very fine contrast make this selection special. For platinum and gold there is no better selection of designs for a powerful result. There also exists the possibility of using precious and semi-precious gemstones to produce a dazzling display of colour, contrasting or matching: the use of organic substances like coral and amber to create a sharp contrast that is stunning and various other materials to create that fun jewellery look, the use of Tahitian pearls in all its hues for that classic yet contemporary look and the oh-so-sought-after diamante geometric jewellery in white gold or geometric settings with contrasting black and white diamonds to simply blow your mind! Italian designers often set the jewellery trends for seasons to come, so note of the jewellery that was on display at the OroArezzo International Gold, Silver and Jewellery Trade Exhibition. The showcases were filled with necklaces, geometric pieces, movement and bi and tricoloured gold. For men, accessories are now viewed as a way of lending a personal touch to their image. Cuff links, rings and bracelets also add attractive elements to more classic outfits. Aerodynamic designs and flat geometry live alongside minimalist pieces. Apart from precious metals and stones, clean-lined silver, steel and now champagne jewellery can increasingly be seen on male wrists, necks and fingers. Together, they are the men’s “now” look..

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